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Sex, feminism, farewells and Kimye: talking points from Paris fashion week

Skirt wearers beware – it’s all about shorts next season. Moving on from culottes in Milan, Raf Simons at Dior – traditionally the home of ladylike style – has decreed that the board short is what you’ll be wearing come spring. But don’t think that sanctions carrying a surfboard and sporting a ratty pair of Vans. Simons made the board short posh by pairing it with ornate frock coats and embroidered booties. Think Kelly Slater crossed with Sofia Coppola’s Marie Antoinette and you’re almost there. A truly genius mash-up. Holiday Dresses It’s hip to be square next season. Latticework has been everywhere in Paris – at Balenciaga, Sacai and Balmain. But all Bauhaus-approved shapes are welcome – see neat circles of fabric at Giambattista Valli (very Spirograph) and Vionnet, as well as lots of diagonals on dresses at Roland Mouret. The tournament prize, though, goes to JW Anderson. While his first collection for Loewe was geometry free, he let the venue – the Unesco building – do the work. Designed in 1958, in part by Marcel Breuer, it’s a concrete ode to exactitude and fits this season precisely. To recap: Alexander Wang is the 30-year-old in charge of Balenciaga and JW Anderson is the 30-year-old in charge of Loewe. Two young fashion princes whom conglomerates Kering and LVMH respectively have put their trust in. Debate swirled around whether there was too much of these designers’ fingerprints in the work they produced for these fashion houses. The answer is probably yes, for both, and they were all the better for it. If Wang’s sports bent means we get lilac Tour de France tops in the fanciest Balenciaga fabrics and JW’s leftfield slant means latex T-shirts and chequerboard tops, then we are convinced.

Posté: 13:15, 2/10/2014
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